Al Jazirah Al Hamra |
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Al Jazirah Al Hamra, which means the ‘Red Island’, is one of the oldest occupied sites in the UAE. A large deposit of shells middens accumulated over a long period of time showed that the area offered a certain degree of stability and was inhabited regularly, probably by the semi-nomadic groups. Furthermore, the flint tools, stone artefacts, beads and potsherds from the Ubaid period (5000-3200BC) discovered in the place proved that the people here had a contact with other lands already in the 5th millennium BC. More layers of middens were added on top of this Neolithic one, demonstrating that the area was further occupied in the subsequent periods.
These days, Al Jazirah Al Hamra is a coastal town, 18 km south west of Ras Al Khaimah centre, divided into the old and new towns. The old settlement was created centuries ago (at least in the 14th century) on a peninsula, which at the time of high tide was becoming an island. Since 1974, when a construction of the modern village started, the old part is permanently linked with the mainland by the reclaimed land. Later, one of the main sea ports of Ras Al Khaimah was opened and still operates just near the old town.
For centuries, this coastal village was occupied by the Za’ab tribe. Since their livelihood depended mainly on pearling, the crisis of 1930s and the decline of natural pearl industry worsened the economic situation of the town. Around the 1960s-1970s, the old town was largely deserted when the inhabitants moved out attracted by the prospect of better living conditions offered by the local government. People left behind their houses, mosques and shops, creating an undisturbed picture of life before the exploitation of oil. The village managed to survive almost intact until the 21st century and now it is the best preserved coastal town in the UAE.
The town has a distinctive atmosphere, which will captivate your senses immediately. Once you are there it is easy to forget the time as you walk through the narrow alleys around the households and mosques. It seems that there is always more to discover, as the architecture of the place represents not only various styles but also different periods. This abandoned town is also called the ghost town and some local people believe that indeed the ghosts are running this place now. However, instead of ghosts you are more likely to see some desert foxes that choose this place as their home.
Majority of the houses are built from coral rag, the roofs are constructed from palm trunks or mangrove poles. The walls of the oldest buildings have clearly visible larger pieces of coral, while the younger once were erected from bricks of crushed coral. There are also many concrete structures including houses with garages, a school and mosques, that were built relatively recently, around the 1950s and 60s. The typical households in Al Jazirah Al Hamra include grouped dwellings set around the courtyard often shaded with a palm tree. These houses were usually shared by the members of the same family. You may also find a well, which provided a water supply for the house, inside the yard or nearby the building. You can admire many decorative features of the buildings including wall niches, wind catchers or plaster window coverings. The entrances to the buildings are often guarded by the decorated rusty metal doors, although some older houses still have wooden doors.
One of the most interesting buildings is a house with wind towers, a typical architectonical feature of this region. This is one of the first buildings you may see when entering the village following the directions described above. The towers were an old form of the air conditioning and cooled down the spaces inside by the circulation of the air. This residential complex with the wind towers is inhabited, thus it cannot be seen from the inside, but still it provides a great photo opportunity.
At the end of the coastal street, around 250m from the wind towers house, an old charming mosque is located. The uniqueness of this mosque is attributed to its minaret. It is a stumpy coral block construction in a conical shape, which is the opposite of the tall, slender concrete minarets of other mosques. It is also the oldest mosque in the village and one of the oldest in the Emirate. In the past, the area between the house with the wind towers and the mosque hosted the town souq, where many stores and stands were located. Some of them can still be seen today.
Proceed along the souq road towards fenced rocks and then turn left. Shortly after, you should see some beautiful houses on your left. In this area of the town you will see some examples of two storey buildings and one in particular should attract your attention. Not only it is still relatively well preserved, but it also has splendid ornamentation and amazing air ventilations. The roof of the ground floor made from wooden beams and palm leaves is also an interesting feature. The house belonged to Ahmed Al Omran, a pearl merchant, and it was part of a large compound. The remains of the other dwellings that originally were set around the courtyard are still visible.
On the other side of the village, which you can reach by walking further away from the beach, you should come across the old fort and two watchtowers. The fort is sometimes less visible as it is hidden behind the groups of trucks that transformed nearby area into a parking spot. This fort, which is situated at the entrance to the village, is one of the oldest constructions of the old town. Although, now ruined, it must have been fairly large structure with two towers and residential quarters. A tower in the west corner is a round one, while on the opposite side an example of the square tower can be seen. Both towers have been renovated in the recent times and are accessible for the visitors. It is well worth to climb up (the square tower has an easy stairs), as the views over the village are exceptional. In the past, the towers were used to detect approaching intruders, thus give time to prepare for an attack. The towers were part of a larger defence system and had a visual link with other towers situated further inland. You may try to spot the other towers from the roof; two of them situated by the coastal road can still be seen today.
This town is special in many aspects, although, it is about to change due to the new projects constructed in its neighbourhood such as Dana Island or Mina Al Arab. Hopefully, during the process of building of the new touristic centre of the Emirate, this village will be protected and preserved. Its charm and uniqueness are well worth the effort.
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LOCATION: around 18km south west from Ras Al Khaimah. Drive towards the Emirates Road R/A. Once at the roundabout, do not turn towards Dubai but go straight and continue along the coast. After about 5km you pass the modern village of Jazirat Al Hamra, then turn to the right, there is also a sign: Al Jazirat Al Hamra. After 900m you will see the Al Jazeera Port sign, turn here to the right and then take a first turn left. After 400m enter the old village by turning left onto the dirt road and explore the village.
GPS: Wind Towers House: N25o42’ 40.56” E55o47’ 44.38” Old Mosque: N25o42’ 42.00” E55o47’ 36.61” Ahmed Al Omran’s house: N25o42’ 32.00” E55o47’ 30.40” Fort and watch towers: N25o42’ 32.17” E55o47’ 49.45”
NOTE: many houses, although not occupied, are still the property of the local families so do not force an entry and remove nothing.
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