Wadi Al Qawr (Qor) |
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Wadi Al Qawr is a long and wide wadi that for centuries served as a mountain passage connecting the Eastern Coast of the Arabic Peninsula with the inner lands. The route lost its importance only recently, when a number of new tarmac roads were built nearby, followed by the construction of the border wall with Oman. The wadi has been occupied for at least five millenniums, which is evident through historical discoveries. These include settlements, tombs, forts, old mosques and houses. The area continues to be populated and several villages on its upper banks are still inhabited. They are linked with a recently paved wadi road and accessible with a saloon car. All these villages are pleasant and rather charming. They are excellent examples of rural communities in the modern UAE with a laid back way of life still evident. The people living in the area seem to be very friendly, obliging and hospitable. Although they are often not aware of the archaeological discoveries around, they are willing to support a visitor in their search. However, while wondering through the villages, remember to respect their privacy and customs.
Having a supply of underground water supported with rainfall, the area was always cultivated. The farms have grown date palms, vegetables and also tobacco, for which this place was known. Farming is still a popular activity, but sadly modern farmers have to face some serious problems caused by an insufficient amount of water. In recent years, the rainfall has been scarce and the farmers have to dig deeper into the ground to receive the underground water. A number of wells can be spotted near the villages, but even they do not seem to provide enough of water. As a result, the palm trees are slowly dying, which can be observed when passing the wadi.
AL QAWR and HUWAYLAT VILLAGES
Al Qawr is a small village situated farthest west, close to the border with Oman. It has a number of palm gardens and farms that surround the village dwellings. The village is rather modern and is situated at the end of the tarmac road. From here you can continue to drive further into off road part of Wadi Al Qawr; however this road is nowadays cut short by the high wall, which marks the border with Oman. The next settlement along the tarmac road is Huwaylat, which has been an oasis for centuries and now continues to serve as a resting post for the visitors in the area. At the Huwaylat Roundabout, also called the Huwaylat Square, you can find small grocery shops, a petrol station, simple snack bars and car service stations. A scenic road to Hatta also starts at this roundabout, while the second exit at the roundabout will take you further down Wadi Al Qawr.
FASHGHA VILLAGE
After leaving the Huwaylat Roundabout, Fashgha is the first village you will approach, situated just on the left side of the wadi. It consists of newly constructed houses sited with older dwellings. An old mosque in the west side of the hamlet is most likely to attract your attention at first. Although this mosque is no longer in use, it is an example of the traditional mosque for this region. It has an opened veranda in front of the entrance, which provided shadow for the faithful, and has no minaret.
On the other side of the village you can find an old graveyard (near a high mast), which not only contains old Islamic graves but also much older tombs from the late second millennium BC, the early Iron Age (1200-1000BC). In the late 1980s, Wadi Al Qawr was investigated by a group of archaeologist and these tombs were part of their rich discoveries. Initially a unique horseshoe shape tomb was unearthed, to be followed by another tomb of asymmetrical shape. Interestingly, these communal tombs were cut deep into the ground, while its walls were erected with round mountain boulders. The roof was made using large flat slabs, also used to make the entrance to the tomb. Most artefacts were identified as coming from the early Iron Age, although the tomb was re-used throughout the entire Iron Age and again during the 1st century AD. The grave goods discovered inside included locally produced pots, soft stone vessels (often decorated with a zigzag or other geometric patterns), beads, arrowheads and pottery from other locations. Tombs coming from the same period and of the same structure were also found in Naslah, located approximately 6km away.
Heritage Village in Fashgha Iron Age Tomb in Fashgha
Near the Fashgha village, the inhabitants of the Seih Al Mahhab community have opened a Heritage Village. It is an interesting place displaying various household objects in several reconstructed traditional arish houses. If not only this exhibition, then a chance to share a tea with a charming owner is worth a visit.
RAFAQ VILLAGE
The following settlement located down the wadi is called Rafaq. Apart from being a pleasant small village, Rafaq has incredible archaeological discoveries, namely two Iron Age settlements, which are situated on both sides of the wadi. These settlements consisted of small groups of houses probably covered with materials such as palm branches and surrounded with low stone walls. Both settlements were fortified communities built in different Iron Age periods and also reused in the later times. The first village from the early Iron Age was settled just right from Rafaq, while another one was established in the later period on the hill hidden from the wadi. Finds of animal bones and grinding stones showed that people here were farmers and cultivated grains. The amount of incense burners unearthed in the area indicates that the community was probably a part of the incense route coming from Yemen.
Additionally, Rafaq has a more recent historical structure built in the middle of the village. It is a fortification tower from the Late Islamic period, constructed in the 17th or 18th century. Since there is only one another example of a fort from that time, that is a large fortification in Fujairah, this building in Rafaq has a special value. It is a simple square tower made from stone and mortar, but interesting it is surrounded almost immediately by a round wall. No obvious entry points are visible and probably the doors were made high on the wall to impede the access for intruders. The defensive purpose of the fort is marked by a number of loop-halls visible on all sides of the tower. This architectonical style became popular in the later decades, but until then it was rather unique in this area.
NASLAH VILLAGE
The last village situated utmost east, before the Omani border, is already mentioned, Naslah. On the north bank of the wadi just before this settlement, two large subterranean tombs from the second millennium BC were discovered. These are similar in form and structure to those found in Fashgha. They are oval in shape containing several chambers. Many intact stone vases and boxes from the Iron Age were uncovered inside. The amount suggests that they were probably locally produced. Examples of these beautiful vessels can be seen in the RAK National Museum.
Another site of interest in Naslah is the remains of an old fort situated on the north-east side of the village. This 19th century fortress was built from stone and mortar, and it shares its design with another tower in this area, that is the one in Wadi Munay’i. It has two distinctive parts, a tower and residential quarters. Unfortunately, you cannot enter the tower and the dwellings are largely collapsed, but the fort is still interesting and gives a nice photo opportunity. Near this fort, a mosque with the visible mihrab was constructed and it is probably contemporary to the strongholds. Inside the village you can find yet another part of wadi fortification, the typical watch tower that stands above the road guarding the village.
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LOCATION: southern district of Ras Al Khaimah. From the Munay'i village you have to drive further south and after around 4km you will see a sign: Wadi Qawr, pointing to the right, there is also a police station at the corner of this junction. This is the west part of the wadi. At the end of the tarmac road you will approach the village of Al Qawr. To see other parts of the wadi go back to the main crossing, turn right and continue to drive towards Huwaylat. At the Huwaylat R/A, you need to take the second exit, turning left. If you continue driving down this road for about 17km, you will arrive at the Omani border, however on the way you will pass Fashgha, Rafaq and Naslah. GPS: Fashgha’s tombs - N24o52’ 55.26” E56o12’ 43.95” Rafaq’s fort- N24o52’ 28.45” E56o14’ 49.00” Rafaq’s iron age settlement- N24o52’ 21.08” E56o15’ 14.13” Naslah’s fort - N24o52’ 00.78” E56o15’ 47.15” Naslah’s tombs – N24o52’ 11.54” E56o15’ 25.47”
NOTE: the wadi road is nowadays paved and unless you take side roads, you do not need a 4WD.
Tower in Rafaq
Fort in Naslah
Fort in Naslah |
